The renaissance of wool has been growing in recent years, as sustainability and fast fashion dominate conversations.
What was once a well-respected fibre, used because of its longevity as well as its environmental qualities, the wool industry has certainly seen its peaks and troughs over the years, but a new campaign is bringing it back into the spotlight.
The Great British Wool Revival is run by Fashion Roundtable, a leading think tank and change agency, has been funded by YOOX Net-a-Porter as part of its Modern Artisan programme, a talent initiative that supports and trains emerging designers and makers in collaboration with The King's Foundation.
The idea is to connect the fashion industry with farmers who produce wool sustainably, producing an interactive map that highlights all aspects of the wool supply chain including farmers, graders and spinning facilities.
Tamara Cincik, founder and CEO of Fashion Roundtable and The Great British Wool Revival, says the initiative is well timed and will help to strengthen the farmer to designer supply chain, making British wool, natural dyes and best-practice more accessible in the UK.
Supply chain
"The revival plugs the systems gap by supporting local production, regenerative practices and fully traceable supply chains. We have had over 200 brands and businesses join our map to date, and thousands of page views in the last year. The 'Dumfries House Clip' scarf, which used wool from Dumfries House, sold out in under 48 hours," she says.
"The Great British Wool Revival champions British wool, ensuring farmers receive a fair price for their fleeces, which is too often seen as a by-product of the meat industry, while serving as a vital bridge between farmers and designers. We are so excited to see how this initiative progresses and grows supporting local wool and on-shoring."
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There are many farmers across the country supporting the campaign, including Lake District farmers John Atkinson and Maria Benjamin who farm in the Lake District.
Running around 350 sheep and 100 head of cattle, the couple keep native breeds, including Whitebred Shorthorn cattle and Lairg type North Country Cheviot sheep.
Maria says: "Over the years we have kept many different sheep breeds for their wool, but we now buy fleece from other farmers and have simplified the livestock on our own farm.
"We keep breeds that work best on our land and suit our way of farming, so mainly hardy hill breeds.
"Lairg type North Country Cheviots are ideal because they are extremely robust but also produce excellent wool. We do keep a small number of traditional Bluefaced Leicesters, but they require far more care and would not survive on the fell. Instead, we use Bluefaced Leicester rams for crossing on some of our older Cheviot ewes to produce Cheviot Mules."
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Promoting wool is something Maria has always been passionate about, and set up Lake District Tweed, sourcing fleece from around 20 Lake District farmers, followed by the creation of The Wool Library, which Zoe Fletcher and partner John set up together. Between them, they have an extensive knowledge of wool – Zoe is a textile designer and has a PhD in British sheep breed wool characteristics, and John is Chair of the Rare Breeds Survival Trust.
She says: "The Wool Library produces breed-specific yarns and also works with other farms and organisations that want to develop meaningful British wool projects."
For them, the way they farm is ‘a philosophy and a way of working that goes beyond certification', practicing regenerative principles, working to increase biodiversity through grazing management and boosting soil health and animal welfare.
But both are proud to be part of the Great British Wool Revival and excited to see the fibre's qualities be rediscovered.
"I think wool is beginning to make a comeback. The long seduction of cheap synthetic fibres is wearing off as people become more aware of their environmental impact – and even the effects they may have on human health," she says.
"Wool has always been a remarkable fibre."
