Utilising 'unproductive' land for a practical purpose
Thriving on the rough hillside grasslands, cattle on the Ebworth Estate are proof there is value to be gained in farming marginal land. William Surman visits the Cotswolds. Pictures by Marcello Garbagnolli.
Young farmer Matt Stanway is driven by a passion to link a rich, biodiverse environment with high-class, productive agriculture.
He manages a National Trust scheme, using 70 rare breed Belted Galloway and Welsh Black cattle to graze and conserve 150 hectares of wildlife-rich grassland in Gloucestershire.
He sells his grass-fed beef to local buyers and was recently rewarded for his Welsh Black mince, topside and sirloin cuts after picking up a National Trust Fine Farm Produce Award.
“Last night a chap told me our beef was magnificent,” says Matt proudly.
“I like to think this is because of the low stress, outdoor, straightforward life of the cattle.”
As testament to this, Matt's overriding philosophy is to keep things simple and organic – a belief that permeates every part of his farming.
Matt, 32, lives in the picturesque village of Sheepscombe, tucked away in a Cotswold valley about six miles south-east of Gloucester. His office is just a short walk across the valley on the National Trust's Ebworth Estate.
The area contains the UK's biggest concentration of limestone grassland and it is home to more than 100 species of wildflower and 25 species of butterfly.
However, over the past 50 years, woodland and scrub has spread across the Cotswolds. Views have been lost and important wildlife habitats have disappeared too.
Since 2001, Matt has tried to reverse the trend by restoring and protecting traditional grassland.
“I feel very strongly we should preserve and conserve this type of habitat in a traditional way, as they (farmers) have for hundreds of years,” he says.
For seven years, Matt has run the scheme – known as the Cotswold Grazing Animals Project – simultaneously manages the land and finishes his award-winning rare breed cattle.
Since the early 1990s Natural England has used Welsh Black cattle to graze the common land in the Cotswold escarpment stretching from Cheltenham to Stroud.
In 1999, the National Trust decided to follow suit and bought in some Belted Galloway cattle to graze two of their major land ownership areas in Stroud – namely Rodborough and Minchinhampton commons.
“The slopes of the commons were not getting enough grazing pressure and were consequently becoming overgrown with brambles,” says Matt, who is stockman for the National Trust and Natural England.
The cattle have since become an integral part in restoring the grassland and are his regular organic lawnmowers. “They are fantastic grazers and can get on with life with minimum fuss,” he says.
“The cattle are out the entire time. We have no sheds or buildings, the cows will calve on their own and I can count on my hands the number of times they have needed assistance over the last two years.”

Reaping rewards
Despite the simplicity of the system, cattle still need some attention.
He checks on them every day, runs a herd health plan and works very closely with his local vet to ensure a watertight spring vaccination programme is carried out.
A bull is hired to run with the cows, with the aim to block calve in the spring.
There are currently 18 Belted Galloway cows running with the bull and 11 calves. The steers are castrated at nine months and finished off on the grass until they are around 27-30 months.
“They are not fast maturing animals and if we have to keep them on the grass for a bit longer before slaughter, so be it – it is at no extra cost,” says Matt.
Natural England had not planned to sell beef from the Welsh Blacks, but the National Trust always intended to finish Belted Galloway cattle to show other farmers that marginal land could reap a reward.
Matt sells beef from both breeds and most sales are generated through word of mouth and are sold in 10kg boxes.
“We wanted to show other farmers that if you have this type of grassland there can be some value in it,” he says.
Such intention perhaps explains the careful consideration given to tenderness and taste. Although the carcases are hung for at least three weeks to increase tenderness, Matt believes the deep flavour comes from the fact they graze grass rich in herbs and flowers.
“Maybe the wild thyme and rock rose infuses into the meat,” he says.

Loyal customers
Although beef sales are still relatively small scale – Matt expects around a dozen beasts will go to slaughter next year – he has a loyal set of customers made up of local people, butchers and restaurants.
Taking an active part in the Eblex Better Returns scheme is something he credits as being extremely helpful to his business. It has taught him about butchery, maximising carcase size, handling cattle and finishing them properly.
In total, the project grazes 30 parcels of marginal land, owned by the National Trust, Natural England, private individuals, the council and some leased land from the Wildlife Trust.
The plots add up to 150 hectares and, over the course of the year, each blade of grass needs to have been covered by the cattle.
“Obviously this is a very extensive system – the ground we graze is very poor with very little productive grass growth and so this is the only way.”
Much of the marginal land Matt looks after has been left by farmers who have no interest in seemingly unproductive areas, but Matt believes otherwise, and says it is well worth the effort.
“Sure the sites are difficult to access or have Special Site of Scientific Interest restrictions, but if we didn't graze we would lose so much.”
Take Rodborough common for example, one of the 30 plots of land named a Special Area of Conservation. Owned by the National Trust, the spot is visited by tens of thousands of walkers every year.
At the highest point, about 1,000 feet, is an impressive panorama view that sweeps across Gloucestershire, over to the Malvern Hills in Worcestershire and on to the Black Mountains in Wales. In the foreground are the Belted Galloway cattle , or ‘Belties', chewing on their rough pasture.
“This grassland is among the most species-rich in Europe and these grazing animals are an intrinsic part of our ancient grassland management.
“Without the grazing, the common would be overgrown and the wildlife severely reduced.”
Conservation
Looking to the future, Matt hopes he can encourage other farmers to produce food on marginal land too.
“When you look at the whole picture, there is no better way to conserve this countryside than traditional grazing – just as they would have done hundreds of years ago,” he says.
“I am lucky to be here. Sure, I have some days when I think I want a new challenge, but when I go out on a nice morning, I realise people would kill for a job like this.
“It has been a steep learning curve, but great fun.”
Cotswold Limestone Grassland
• In the 1930s, around 40 per cent of the Cotswolds was covered in wildflower-rich limestone grassland.
• Today, fewer than 3,000 hectares remain, only 1.5 per cent of the total area.
• Cotswold grassland sites typically contain over 100 species of wildflowers and 25 species of butterflies.
• Plants include many species of Orchid and the Pasque flower.
• Nationally rare butterflies include Charkhill Blue, Adonis Blue and the Duke of Burgandy.
Cotswold grazing animals project
• 150 hecatres are grazed, including seven sites of Special Scientific Interest and three National Nature reserves.
• Finished cattle, sold as boxed beef, costs £3.22/kg
to produce and retails at £8.00/kg (sold in 10kg boxes).
• Other finished cattle sold to local restaurants and butchers at under £8.00/kg.
• Carcases average O+ and R's and 3's and 4L's.
• Belties are finished after 30 months and are 240-280kg deadweight.
• Welsh Blacks are 310-370kg deadweight and are finished after 30 months.
Source:
Farm feature



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