Making the most of seasonal fruit and vegetables

A self-confessed creature of habit, FG’s cookery editor Helen Colley shares her thoughts on two of her favourite tastes of May.

It’s official - my yearly ritual of packing away my winter clothes is done. Regardless of any inclement weather that heads north in the next few months, I refuse wear anything else but my cropped jeans, sandals and summer tops.

I am such a creature of habit, which I think stems from my grandmother, who always had a summer and winter wardrobe.

I often think of my grandmother at this time of year - she was quite a character. She lived in a small village called Winmarleigh in Lancashire. She had a small house and a large garden and was a brilliant baker. I think I have inherited my cookery skills from her.

Her way of life was what we all aim for today. She cooked and ate seasonally, kept free-range hens, tended to rows of blackcurrant and gooseberry bushes, a rhubarb patch and a wonderful vegetable garden, co-aided by my grandfather.

At this time of year the blossom trees were flowering but, at the same time, we were forbidden to bring any into the house, in case we brought in bad luck.

Memories

These wonderful memories have inspired me to grow my own vegetables this year which I’ve written about over the last few months.

I can now actually see green shoots emerging from the virgin soil, but I am concerned things may be a little muddled as Poppy - the family Beagle - has been helping in a not too helpful way.

Emerging are onions, radish, parsnips, lettuce, turnips and rocket, but as yet the potatoes and peas have not raised their heads.

As the warmer weather brings bursts of colours on to fresh and local market stalls, the season is short-lived for many of these treats, so we must grab them while we can.

My personal favourites include asparagus, lemons, mint, radishes (St George’s Day traditionally marks the start of the radish season), tarragon, new potatoes, elderflower, rocket and watercress, many of which feature in my recipes this month.

This week celebrates National Honey Week, and with 35,000 beekeepers in Britain, producing 4,000 tonnes of honey each year, it’s a growing commodity.

Ever a medicinal ingredient, I was recently told if you suffer from hayfever and you take a daily teaspoon of honey produced in the area nearest to where you live, your symptoms will be alleviated. I’m not sure if this is true, but surely it’s worth a try?

Seasonal heroes

This month I have chosen two hero seasonal products, which I think are worth writing about.

The elderflower is a totally unsung hero, which costs you nothing to pick - just some time to forage the flower from its outdoor source. I have suggested a delicious elderflower cordial for you to try, although I know there are so many variations of this recipe. This is from a great friend of mine and has been tried and tested by all the family.

It’s said summer begins when the elder comes into flower and ends when the berries are ripe. The distinctive dinner plate-sized lacy blooms that loll and lop, creating a foaming mass in the hedgerows, are best picked when the sun is on them, with no trace of brown in the blossom.

The elder is steeped in folklore and tradition, grown outside cottages to ward off witches. It was traditionally planted around dairies as it was thought to keep the milk from turning.

Its properties are not limited to making cordials for, since the days of the Druids, the plant has been appreciated for its medicinal worth. It is rich in vitamin C and has been used as a herbal remedy for coughs, colds and hayfever.

Asparagus

Asparagus is my next ingredient of choice with its brilliant colour, woody flavour and imposing spears.

The word originates from the Greek language, meaning sprout or shoot, and is a member of the lily family.

Ancient Romans first developed gardening techniques to grow asparagus, as they believed it had the necessary qualities in helping prevent bee stings and providing relief for toothache.

Most of the UK’s crop is grown around the Vale of Evesham, where there will be events to celebrate the season, not least the British Asparagus Festival, which runs until June.

Retailers compete to get the first crop, which won’t happen until the soil warms up to 10-12degC. This explains why the first asparagus usually comes from the south and moves up to Scotland for the last part of the season.

It’s not a cheap vegetable, which come from the fact that it is expensive to produce. A newly-planted field will take three years to produce commercial spears, which then have to be hand cut. As soon as it is picked, the sweetness and succulence starts to diminish, so eat it as fresh as you can.

My favourite way to enjoy this seasonal delicacy is steamed, slightly al dente, with plenty of salted butter, but it’s equally as delicious roasted.

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