We are urgently developing research requirements with other European laboratories to make sure we understand and the disease (Schmallenberg) better.Borough Market: Phillip Hughes, Rhug Estate, Denbighshire, Wales
The Borough Market is London’s oldest food market and blends history, tradition and innovation to provide a bustling community for London’s commuters and tourists and a shop window for British producers. Clemmie Gleeson reports.
ON the menu from the Rhug Meats team is a range of traditional meats which will be carved at the Christmas table this year.
Goose, turkey, and ribs of beef are some of the cuts produced on the 1,050-hectare (2,595-acre) organic estate, which includes three farms in Denbighshire and Shropshire.
“It is one of the best food markets in the world,” says Phillip Hughes, manager of Rhug Estate, which has been trading at Borough Market for just over a year. “It has a great buzz and is good fun.”
Approaching its second Christmas at the market, the farm finishes 1,000 cattle and 6,500 lambs every year, as well as 25,000 chickens. Pork is produced in conjunction with tenant Nick Taylor, who runs an organic outdoor herd on sandy land in Shropshire.
The livestock business also boasts a small herd of Bison who graze close to the estate’s farm shop at Corwen. Around seven beasts are slaughtered each autumn and marketed through the shop.
“Initially, our focus was on our farm shop but, four or five years ago, we started selling to Michelin-starred restaurants in London and thought it would be good to have a retail foothold in London. So we went on the waiting list for Borough.”
More than two years later, Phillip was offered a space at the market, which has since boosted their profile among the media, chefs and food buyers.
Modest profit
“It has also helped us to develop our brand. It makes a modest profit, not a fortune, but also, it is good to have a mix of customers.”
City customers tend to prefer smaller portion sizes such as steaks and other high-value cuts, whereas the typical rural customer opts for the bigger joints. “The city customers are generally cooking for two rather than four or six.” This mix helps to market the whole carcase,” he says.
Phillip has noticed a change in buying behaviour in the run up to Christmas this year, yet remains optimistic for the year ahead.
“People seem to be leaving it more to the last-minute this year. Sales are probably a little lighter – it is certainly not doom and gloom – but not quite as shiny as before.”
Phillip will be tucking into a home-produced goose with his family this year, where he will be using the fat from his birds to produce his favourite roast potatoes. His hopes for the New Year centre around growing sales and there are plans to sell to more independent delicatessens and international customers.
“We will be out and about doing samples, engaging with customers and sharing our enthusiasm.”